Home Lighting
Homeowner Summary
Lighting accounts for roughly 10-15% of a typical home's electricity use, but with LED technology that number can drop to 5% or less. If your home still has incandescent or CFL bulbs, switching to LEDs is one of the easiest and highest-return upgrades you can make. A single LED bulb uses 75-80% less energy than an equivalent incandescent, lasts 15-25 times longer, and produces less heat.
Beyond the bulbs themselves, the type and placement of lighting fixtures dramatically affects how your home looks, feels, and functions. Recessed (can) lights provide clean, modern illumination without protruding fixtures. Under-cabinet lighting in kitchens eliminates shadows on work surfaces. Landscape lighting enhances curb appeal and safety. And smart lighting systems let you control everything from your phone, set schedules, and even adjust color temperature throughout the day.
Two numbers matter when choosing lighting: lumens and Kelvin. Lumens measure brightness (how much light), while Kelvin measures color temperature (what color the light appears). A cozy living room might use 2700K (warm white), while a kitchen or bathroom benefits from 3500-4000K (neutral to cool white). Forget watts for brightness -- watts only measure energy consumption. A 10-watt LED produces the same light as a 60-watt incandescent.
How It Works
All light bulbs convert electrical energy into visible light, but they do it with vastly different efficiency:
- Incandescent bulbs pass current through a tungsten filament, which glows white-hot. About 90% of the energy is wasted as heat, only 10% becomes light. Efficiency: ~15 lumens per watt. Lifespan: ~1,000 hours.
- CFL (compact fluorescent) bulbs excite mercury vapor with electrical current, producing UV light that a phosphor coating converts to visible light. Efficiency: ~60 lumens per watt. Lifespan: ~8,000 hours.
- LED bulbs pass current through a semiconductor diode that emits light directly. Extremely efficient with very little heat waste. Efficiency: ~80-130 lumens per watt. Lifespan: ~25,000-50,000 hours.
Color temperature is measured in Kelvin (K) and describes the appearance of white light:
- 2200-2700K: Warm white (candlelight to soft incandescent glow)
- 3000-3500K: Neutral warm (crisp but inviting)
- 4000-5000K: Cool white (bright, energizing, like daylight)
- 5000-6500K: Daylight (very bright and blue-toned, used in garages and workspaces)
Dimming works by reducing the electrical power supplied to the bulb. With LEDs, dimming is handled by electronics in the bulb's driver circuit. Not all LEDs are dimmable, and dimmable LEDs require a compatible dimmer switch. Using the wrong dimmer causes flickering, buzzing, or reduced dimming range.
Maintenance Guide
DIY (Homeowner)
- Replace burned-out bulbs promptly (a dead bulb in a multi-bulb fixture changes the light balance)
- Clean light fixtures and lenses annually to maintain brightness (dust can reduce output 10-20%)
- Test all exterior lights seasonally, including motion sensors and photocells
- Check landscape lighting after storms for shifted or damaged fixtures
- Replace any bulbs that flicker persistently (flickering LEDs usually indicate a dimmer compatibility issue or failing driver)
- Vacuum recessed light trim rings to prevent dust buildup that traps heat
- Verify outdoor GFCI protection works for landscape and exterior lighting circuits
Professional
- Inspect recessed light housings for proper clearance from insulation (IC-rated vs non-IC-rated)
- Check all fixture wire connections for tightness and signs of heat
- Verify dimmer switch compatibility with installed LED bulbs
- Test landscape lighting transformer output and wire connections
- Inspect exterior fixture seals and gaskets for water intrusion
- Evaluate lighting layout for dark spots, glare, or inadequate task lighting
- Verify emergency and egress lighting (if applicable in the home)
Warning Signs
- Bulbs burn out prematurely in the same fixture (overheating, voltage issue, or wrong bulb type)
- Flickering lights (loose connection, dimmer incompatibility, or voltage fluctuation)
- Buzzing from LED bulbs or dimmer switches (incompatible dimmer or poor quality bulb)
- Discoloration or melting on fixture or trim ring (overheating -- wrong bulb wattage or non-IC housing in contact with insulation)
- Landscape lights going dim or developing uneven brightness (wire corrosion, transformer issue)
- Lights turning on/off erratically (motion sensor fault, photocell failure, or wiring problem)
- Circuit breaker trips when lights are switched on (short circuit or overloaded circuit)
- Visible sparking at a light switch (switch failure, needs immediate replacement)
When to Replace vs Repair
Replace when:
- Converting from incandescent or CFL to LED (no-brainer energy savings)
- Fixture is outdated, corroded, or aesthetically dated
- Recessed light housings are non-IC-rated and insulation has been installed around them (fire hazard)
- Existing fixtures don't accommodate LED retrofits properly
- Landscape lighting wire is corroded or undersized for the circuit length
- Smart lighting upgrade desired
Repair when:
- Single bulb or driver has failed in an otherwise good fixture
- Loose wire connection at the fixture junction box
- Dimmer switch needs replacement for LED compatibility
- Landscape light fixture is misaligned but undamaged
- Motion sensor or photocell needs recalibration or replacement
LED bulbs themselves are not repaired -- they are replaced. Fixture-level repairs are worthwhile if the fixture is in good condition and appropriate for the space.
Pro Detail
Specifications & Sizing
Lumens vs watts conversion:
| Desired Brightness | Incandescent | CFL | LED | |---|---|---|---| | 450 lumens | 40W | 9-13W | 4-6W | | 800 lumens | 60W | 13-18W | 8-12W | | 1,100 lumens | 75W | 18-22W | 12-15W | | 1,600 lumens | 100W | 23-30W | 16-20W | | 2,600 lumens | 150W | 40-45W | 25-30W |
Recommended light levels by room (in foot-candles):
| Room | Ambient | Task | Accent | |---|---|---|---| | Living room | 10-20 fc | 30-50 fc (reading) | 3-5x ambient | | Kitchen | 30-40 fc | 50-75 fc (countertops) | -- | | Bathroom | 20-30 fc | 40-60 fc (vanity mirror) | -- | | Bedroom | 10-20 fc | 30-50 fc (reading) | 3-5x ambient | | Home office | 30-50 fc | 50-75 fc (desk) | -- | | Garage/workshop | 30-50 fc | 75-100 fc (workbench) | -- | | Hallway/stairs | 10-20 fc | -- | -- |
Recessed lighting spacing formula:
- Spacing = ceiling height / 2 (for general illumination)
- Example: 8-foot ceiling = 4 feet between recessed lights
- Place first row at half the spacing distance from walls (2 feet from wall for 8-foot ceiling)
- Adjust for task areas (closer spacing over kitchen counters and work surfaces)
Recessed light housing types:
- IC-rated (Insulation Contact): Can be in direct contact with insulation. Required whenever insulation is present.
- Non-IC (AT -- Air Tight): Must have 3 inches of clearance from insulation. Common in older installations.
- IC/AT (Insulation Contact, Air Tight): Best option -- prevents insulation contact issues and air leakage between floors.
- Remodel housings: Install from below without attic access. Used for retrofit installations.
- New construction housings: Nail to joists before drywall. Used during new builds or major renovations.
Landscape lighting design:
- Low-voltage systems (12V) are standard for residential landscape lighting
- Transformer sizing: total fixture wattage x 1.25 safety factor (e.g., 10 fixtures at 5W each = 50W x 1.25 = 63W minimum transformer)
- Wire gauge selection based on total wattage and wire run length (voltage drop must stay under 10% at the farthest fixture)
- Common wire runs: 12 AWG for runs up to 100 feet at 100W; 10 AWG for longer runs or higher loads
- Hub method (home run from transformer to each fixture) provides the most even voltage; daisy chain is simpler but risks voltage drop at the end
Common Failure Modes
| Failure | Cause | Frequency | |---|---|---| | LED driver failure | Heat stress, power surges, cheap components | Common (leading cause of LED failure) | | Dimmer incompatibility | Wrong dimmer type for LED bulbs | Very common | | Recessed light overheating | Wrong bulb wattage, insulation contact on non-IC housing | Moderate -- fire risk | | Landscape transformer failure | Overloaded, water intrusion, age | Moderate | | Landscape wire corrosion | Direct burial without proper connectors, nicked insulation | Common over time | | Photocell/motion sensor failure | Age, weather exposure, spider webs | Common (5-10 year life) | | Fixture seal failure (outdoor) | UV degradation, age, physical damage | Common | | Loose fixture connections | Vibration, thermal cycling, poor installation | Moderate |
Diagnostic Procedures
- Flickering LED diagnosis: First, check if the dimmer is LED-rated and listed as compatible with the specific bulb brand. Try a different bulb. If flickering persists with compatible components, check for loose connections at the switch and fixture. Voltage fluctuation on the circuit can also cause flickering -- measure voltage under load.
- Premature bulb failure: Measure voltage at the fixture (should be 120V +/- 5%). Check fixture for overheating (enclosed fixtures trap heat and shorten LED life). Verify bulb is appropriate for the fixture type (damp/wet rating for outdoor).
- Landscape lighting diagnosis: Measure transformer output voltage (should read 12-15V AC depending on tap setting). Measure voltage at the first and last fixture on each run. More than 10% difference indicates wire sizing issue or bad connection. Inspect all wire connections for corrosion.
- Recessed light overheating: Turn off the circuit. Remove the trim and bulb. Inspect the housing for discoloration or melted plastic. Check if the housing is IC-rated (labeled on the housing). If non-IC, verify 3 inches of clearance from insulation. Convert to LED retrofit module to reduce heat output.
- Smart lighting troubleshooting: Verify Wi-Fi signal strength at the bulb/switch location. Check for firmware updates. Verify the correct integration hub is online. Reset the device if it's unresponsive.
Code & Compliance
- NEC 410.116: Recessed fixtures in insulated ceilings must be IC-rated or have required clearance from combustible materials and insulation
- NEC 410.10: Closet lighting must be specific fixture types (recessed, surface-mounted with enclosed lamp, or LED -- no open incandescent bulbs)
- NEC 411: Low-voltage lighting systems (landscape) -- transformer output limited to 25 amps, Class 2 circuit requirements
- NEC 210.70: Switched lighting outlet required in every habitable room, bathroom, hallway, stairway, attached garage, and at outdoor entrances
- NEC 210.70(A)(2): Stairways with 6 or more steps require 3-way switches at top and bottom
- IRC R303.1: Habitable rooms require natural light (window area equal to 8% of floor area) or artificial light meeting minimum foot-candle requirements
- Dark sky ordinances: Many municipalities restrict outdoor lighting that causes light trespass or glare. Shielded, downward-facing fixtures may be required.
- Title 24 (California): Requires high-efficacy lighting (LED) in all new construction and major remodels. Other states adopting similar requirements.
- Permits: Adding new lighting circuits requires an electrical permit. Replacing fixtures on existing circuits typically does not.
Cost Guide
| Service | Typical Cost | Key Factors | |---|---|---| | LED bulb (standard A19) | $2-$8 per bulb | Brand, lumens, smart features | | Recessed light installation (new) | $150-$300 per light | Ceiling access, existing wiring, IC-rated housing | | Recessed light LED retrofit (existing) | $50-$100 per light | Retrofit module + labor | | Under-cabinet LED installation | $300-$800 total | Hardwired vs plug-in, number of fixtures | | Landscape lighting system (8-12 fixtures) | $2,000-$5,000 | Fixture quality, transformer, wire runs | | Landscape lighting (per fixture, add-on) | $150-$300 | Fixture type, wire run distance | | Smart lighting switch/bulb | $30-$80 per device | Brand, features, hub requirements | | Whole-room lighting redesign | $500-$2,000 | Number of fixtures, circuit work, controls | | LED dimmer switch upgrade | $100-$200 installed | Switch quality, 3-way vs single-pole | | Chandelier/pendant installation | $200-$500 | Weight, existing support, ceiling height |
Costs reflect national averages as of 2026. Custom lighting design and high-end fixtures can significantly exceed these ranges.
Energy Impact
Lighting is one of the easiest areas to achieve dramatic energy savings. Converting a typical 30-bulb home from incandescent to LED saves approximately $200-$400 per year in electricity costs, and the LED bulbs typically pay for themselves within 6-12 months.
Energy comparison for a typical home (30 fixtures, 4 hours/day average):
| Bulb Type | Total Wattage | Annual kWh | Annual Cost (@$0.15/kWh) | |---|---|---|---| | Incandescent (60W equiv) | 1,800W | 2,628 kWh | $394 | | CFL (60W equiv) | 420W | 613 kWh | $92 | | LED (60W equiv) | 300W | 438 kWh | $66 |
Additional savings come from:
- Dimming: Running LEDs at 75% brightness saves roughly 20% energy with minimal perceptible difference
- Smart controls: Occupancy sensors, schedules, and daylight harvesting can reduce lighting energy by 20-40%
- Task lighting: Using directed task lights instead of overhead ambient light reduces energy use by illuminating only where needed
- Reduced cooling load: LEDs produce 80% less heat than incandescent bulbs, reducing air conditioning costs in warm climates by a measurable amount
Shipshape Integration
Monitoring capabilities:
- Smart bulb and switch status tracking (on/off, dimmer level, color temperature, runtime hours)
- Energy consumption monitoring per lighting circuit
- Outdoor and landscape lighting schedule management
- Bulb age and replacement tracking in home profile
SAM alerts:
- Lighting Energy Spike: Alert when lighting circuit energy use increases significantly (may indicate a stuck relay, failed motion sensor, or lighting left on)
- Smart Light Offline: Notification when smart bulbs or switches lose connectivity
- Bulb Replacement Reminder: Proactive alert based on estimated LED hours remaining (manufacturer-rated hours vs tracked runtime)
- Outdoor Light Malfunction: Alert when outdoor or landscape lights are detected on during daytime or off during scheduled hours
Home Health Score impact:
- LED adoption rate (percentage of fixtures converted) contributes to the Energy Efficiency subscore
- Smart lighting controls add to the Smart Home readiness score
- Proper outdoor and landscape lighting adds to the Curb Appeal factor
- Recessed lighting with IC-rated housings documented positively affects the Safety subscore
Dealer actions:
- Assess lighting during initial home evaluation (bulb types, fixture condition, controls)
- Recommend LED conversion with estimated savings calculation
- Propose smart lighting packages based on homeowner lifestyle and automation goals
- Inspect recessed light housings for IC-rating compliance during attic assessments
- Include landscape lighting evaluation in exterior home assessments
- Track lighting circuit energy use as part of whole-home energy monitoring